In Consider the Fork, Bee Wilson’s exploration on the history of knives is thoroughly enjoyable. She compares how the use of knives - both in the kitchen and as part of table etiquette - have evolved in different cultures.
I was fascinated by the description of the Chinese tou. A knife similar in appearance to a French cleaver but thinner, less weighty, and without any tapering, curving or pointing.
“With this single knife, Chinese cooks produce a far wider range of cutting shapes than the dicing, julienning and so on produced by the many knives of French cuisine. A tou can create silken threads (8-cm long and very thin), sliver-needle silken threads (even thinner), horse ears (3-cm slices cut on a steep angle), cubes, strips and slices, to name but a few.”
I was captivated by Wilson’s detailed description of the tou’s superiority in Chinese kitchens compared to the numerous knives used in other kitchens. I felt inspired to try my hand at such delicate, precise cooking. And if it weren’t for my collection of dull knives, I would certainly have given a try!
But all was not lost. Wilson completes each chapter with worthwhile gadgets that can be found in modern kitchens. The mezzaluna (‘half moon’ in Italian) is the tool I turn to most when I need vegetables and herbs finely diced.
“This is a thrilling object to use. It’s like taking your hand for a swing-boat ride in some ancient Italian city. Up-down, up-down. You look down and inhale the giddy aroma parsley, lemon peel and garlic, a gremolata to sprinkle on a osso bucco.
Yes, you could have blitzed it in a food processor, or chopped it with a regular chef’s knife - but the mezzaluna does it better.”
I have no idea what osso bucco is, but I know that the mezzaluna makes easy work of preparing salsa. This recipe is written down from memory - from my very first Betty Crocker cookbook in 1998 - which I’ve made countless times.
Recipe
- 6-8 medium ripe tomatoes
- 1 green pepper
- 1 small red onion or several spring onions
- 2 garlic cloves, minced
- 1 small bunch of coriander
- 1 Jalapeno pepper
- 1-2 limes, juiced
- sea salt
Deseed and roughly chop the tomatoes with knife. Use the mezzaluna to turn the chopped tomatoes into a fine dice (approx ¼ inch / 5 mm). Repeat this process with the green pepper, red onion and jalapeno pepper. Finely chop the coriander.
Mix all the ingredients in a bowl and add the minced garlic. Season with salt, add the lime juice and stir the salsa well. Cover and refrigerate until it’s required.
To serve:
The possibilities are endless: nachos dip, tortilla wrap filling, salad topper, bruschetta
